The ET Mod installation

[Quinny]

Geeze tokirky ...

Where have you been ?

[koshari]

1/2 watt will be fine. With that value I assume you are doingthe 2 wire mod?

[tokirky]

Still here mate lurking around _ bloody kids are taking all my time these days...

Old fart is on to a good thing here at last

Thanks koshari

[Quinny]

Still here mate lurking around _ bloody kids are taking all my time these days...

Old fart is on to a good thing here at last

Thanks koshari

Still got those pants ?

[fridgie]

Still here mate lurking around _ bloody kids are taking all my time these days...

Old fart is on to a good thing here at last

Thanks koshari

Still got those pants ?

Bwahahaha

[tokirky]

Yep and socks.

[RHKTriton]

Over two weeks, swirl flaps have not had any bad effects, economy since fitting resistor seems to have improved slightly

[oli78]

I've recently had manifolds sorted due to the carbon buildup - boy what a difference in my 07 ML! No more surging, much smoother drive - particularly at low speed - and generally seems quieter as well.

I'm keen to stop it happening again, so I thought I'd use one of the resistor mods. Probably the single 6.8k resistor for simplicity, as there doesn't seem to be a strong consensus for the 2wire mod (if I'm reading it right). I've only had the Triton for about 6 months, and no idea on what may have been done previously.

I have an elcheapo BT OBD dongle and the free version of Torque. Thing is - the throttle display is showing 100% constantly, even when idling in my driveway. Reading back, that seems to indicate the mod has already been done. The "EGR Commanded" value doesn't show up in my version of Torque - is that on the pro version perhaps?

Short of stripping back the wiring loom an searching for a potentially well hidden mod, would it be safe to assume that the previous owner has already done the mod? Any other way I can check?

[Cowboy Dave]

I'm not sure that's enough evidence. EGR should only open when everything is quite warm anyway and usually then on deceleration if I recall correctly.

[AnOldFart]

I've recently had manifolds sorted due to the carbon buildup - boy what a difference in my 07 ML! No more surging, much smoother drive - particularly at low speed - and generally seems quieter as well.
I'm keen to stop it happening again, so I thought I'd use one of the resistor mods. Probably the single 6.8k resistor for simplicity, as there doesn't seem to be a strong consensus for the 2wire mod (if I'm reading it right). I've only had the Triton for about 6 months, and no idea on what may have been done previously.
I have an elcheapo BT OBD dongle and the free version of Torque. Thing is - the throttle display is showing 100% constantly, even when idling in my driveway. Reading back, that seems to indicate the mod has already been done. The "EGR Commanded" value doesn't show up in my version of Torque - is that on the pro version perhaps?
Short of stripping back the wiring loom an searching for a potentially well hidden mod, would it be safe to assume that the previous owner has already done the mod? Any other way I can check?

To easily verify with your scangauge, if the ET Mod has already been done, the other thing you should also look for, apart from the continuously steady 100% Throttle position, is the MAF sensor reading, which, at idle, should read something like 24 if the EGR Valve is indeed, fully closed, and something more like 12, if it's not.
Keep in mind, that in a 'stock' vehicle, the EGR's operation will also actually be affected by the outside ambient air temperature which, if it is very cool, eg, below 10C degrees, will also cause the EGR Valve to remain closed hence, you should only attempt to take your ATP and MAF readings with your vehicle running at idle, fully warmed up to normal operating temperature, and with an outside air temperature above, 20C degrees.
The other indicator you can use is the 'sound' that comes from the engine bay after engine switch-off. If the EGR is still operating normally, then if you listen carefully, you will hear it's motor 'driving' the EGR Valve closed, immediately after engine switch-off, followed about 15 seconds later by the sound of the Throttle Butterfly returning to the fully open position again, in readiness for the next time the vehicle is started.
So, if the ATP consistently reads 100% and the MAF reads around 24 and the only, noise, that you hear, after engine switch-off, is the sound of the Throttle Butterfly returning, to fully open position around 15 seconds later, then, under -all- of those conditions, it's safe to consider that the ET Mod has already been done.
As a final note, if you are, indeed going to use the 'single' 6.8K resistor 'approach' to this Mod, then you should choose the 'wired in parallel' not the 'wired in series' method, if you also wish to avoid any 'possible' problems from arising with CELs and Codes happening, further down the track, due to wide variations between Winter and Summer ambient air temperatures right across Australia....

[oli78]

Thanks for the detailed reply AOF. I'll get it warmed and go for a drive, then check out those values.

When you say wired in parallel, do you mean putting it across pins 1 & 2 of the air intake sensor (looking at the picture in your post on page 4 of this thread)? If I'm going to do that, seem like I may as well do the 2 x 12k as you still have to cut both wires, right?

[AnOldFart]

Thanks for the detailed reply AOF. I'll get it warmed and go for a drive, then check out those values.
When you say wired in parallel, do you mean putting it across pins 1 & 2 of the air intake sensor (looking at the picture in your post on page 4 of this thread)? If I'm going to do that, seem like I may as well do the 2 x 12k as you still have to cut both wires, right?

That's correct 'oli78'. To use the single 6.8K resistor, 'wired in parallel' method, you need to cut both the B-L and Y-L wires ie, the ones going to pins one, and two, of the MAF Connector's Plug and then, solder the pigtail ends of your single, 6.8K resistor, onto the 'cut ends' of those two wires. Obviously, you solder the resistor onto the vehicle's 'wiring loom' side of the cut, -not- onto the 'MAF Connector' side of the cut wires... This method leaves the vehicle's original OEM AT1 Thermistor, housed inside of the MAF Sensor body, completely dis-connected ie, it plays no further part in the MAF Sensing circuit at all, with that job now having been taken over completely, by the new fixed value 6.8K 'parallel wired' resistor, which now provides simulation, of a constant, 0C degrees ambient air temperature back to the vehicle's ECU.
The only 'consideration' with using this method is that it provides no further, ongoing, 'dynamic' variable resistance feedback to the vehicle's ECU however, as previously mentioned by Koshari in his posts, he doesn't think that this will pose any problem for the ECU's coding ie, any possible detection by it, of a MAF 'fault condition' due to the now, constantly fixed, MAF AT1 resistance value. The only reason I personally chose the two 12K resistor network approach, was to 'err on the safe side' and allow -some- although much restrained, level of dynamic resistance to still be fedback, to the ECU.
Just be careful, before you attempt any of this work, make sure that the vehicle's Ignition switch is turned OFF. Wear only cotton or pure wool clothing -not- any 'synthetic' clothing ie, the type of stuff that easily generates static electricity, especially in dry, Winter low-humidity conditions.... Cut each wire, -seperately- and use a proper low wattage, earthed soldering iron, and resin cored solder, specifically designed for small electrical work and don't -cook- the little resistor by over-heating it.
Best idea is to strip 5mm of the plastic insulation off each of the ends of the B-L and Y-L wires and then pre-tin ie, pre-solder each of those bare wire ends first. Then, pre-tin the ends of each of the resistor's wire pigtails as well. If you hold the body of the little resistor between your fingers whilst you are actually doing this, you will very quickly learn to appreciate, just how fast it heats up with the soldering iron applied to it's wire pigtails. This pre-tinning, will make it a lot easier, and faster, to then solder the resistor onto the ends of the pre-tinned wires thus, reducing the risk of you accidently over-cooking it.
Also, be careful not to accidently touch, the newly bared, cut ends, of the B-L and Y-L wires together, or onto any of the vehicle's metalwork, during all of this work and once the resistor is successfully soldered in place, make sure that you fuly cover, -all- of it, in electrical insulation tape or, even better, if you can, use a suitable length of 'heat-shrink' insulation tubing to cover -all- of it, so that no part of it can ever accidently touch -anything- else.
Lastly, before you tape it all, back into the wiring loom, cover the now remaining two loose cut ends, of the wires on the MAF Connector's side of where you made the cut in the wiring loom, with a little insulation tape and then use something to provide additional 'strength' to physically re-inforce the little resistor, to prevent any future vibration and flexing stress from physically affecting it. Something very simple, like a 75mm cut length, of a 3mm diameter bamboo BBQ skewer ie, the type used for cooking shiskebabs would suffice for this job. Just lay it -alongside- of, the 'fully pre-insulated' length of the resistor and then tape it, or heat-shrink it, into place there to provide stiffening and support. Job done....

[micv]

Sorry if this has already been answered but why does the EGR valve close as the air temp gets cooler? I would have thought it should be the opposite with cooler air being more oxygen dense and therefore it should be able to tolerate more EGR open.

[AnOldFart]

Sorry if this has already been answered but why does the EGR valve close as the air temp gets cooler? I would have thought it should be the opposite with cooler air being more oxygen dense and therefore it should be able to tolerate more EGR open.

The role of the EGR system is to -cool- the combustion temperature in order to prevent the generation of Nitrous Oxides in the exhaust gas emissions. Hence, it opens ie, allows more Oxygen deprived, exhaust gas re-circulation into the intake manifold to reduce, the -ratio- of Oxygen present in the combustion chamber, ergo, reducing the flame front temperature, but, it only does this when the vehicle is operating within a 'defined' ambient temperature range.
Once the ambient air temperature falls below -about- 10C degrees, measured by the MAF circuit's AT1 thermistor, then the EGR Valve shuts.
You are right about cooler air being more dense but, the Oxygen -ratio- in any sample of air doesn't actually vary, with temperature, it's just the -volume- of air, that is being -inhaled- by each stroke of the 'donk' that increases, and hence, the ECU thinks, there's more -cool- air -volume- being inhaled at low temps, and hence, for a -fixed- charge, of diesel fuel, injected, at any given, throttle position, there's no need to provide additional -artificial- cooling, of the combustion process.
This EGR gas feeback wouldn't be a problem, if it wasn't for all of the micro-particulate physical Carbon, that's inherently contained within the re-circulated EGR exhaust gas, however, that then combines with the trace amounts of oil being fed back into the air intake circuit via the PCV and Turbo oil seal weeps to form the filthy black manifold congesting gunk that ruins your vehicle's performance, fuel-economy, and also earns you big manifold cleaning bills every now and then when you visit the Stealers house....

[micv]

Thanks for clearing that up AOF. I've also just read the Wikipedia page which seems to have a good explanation backing up all the pros and cons discussed in this thread.

[Pc Challenger]

Has any one had negative affects from this mod?
What resistance to use on a 2014 challenger?
How do i test if its working?
Cheers

[RHKTriton]

EGR stays shut

Throttle stays open and doesn't restrict turbo's job

Engine oil stays cleaner

Manifold clog is mitigated

Swirl valve works properly - no more "studdering" on morning first drive.

Smoother power delivery and possibly slight economy improvement to offset the bigger tyres.

Throttle flap continues to operate as intended on engine shutdown.

Might save knuckle skin if the EGR blanking plate hasn't been installed yet.

Negatives - greenie having a fit somewhere?

Probably the same value as the other models - if MAF unit is the same part number.

Use Scan gauge or Torque app with dongle to monitor throttle flap.

[maxinvan]

What an amazingly well told story above by Old Fart and RHK Triton, the whole deal beautifully explained. As I told Tony it's people like you who make Australia great. I fitted the mod designed by Tony, it's even adjustable. My truck has never run so well.

[al coholic]

Yeah, Tony is a truly amazing bloke, there is no one on this site that gives as much time and effort to the members here

[Pc Challenger]

Does tony make a plug and play for the challenger?
Is his user name tony?

Also how do you no what resistance to use?

[Cowboy Dave]

Just Tony. It's not quite plug and play, more like cut, crimp then plug & play. Challenger has same motor as the MN triton. Tony presets them for whichever motor you have. Beyond that it would require an obd reader of some description to monitor temp readings or the EGR or tps figures. Or you can choose to use the figures at the start of this thread which are a fair bit higher.

[har05l]

I don't use an OBD reader and have no idea what's going on in their, just hooked it up and and drove it

[al coholic]

I don't use an OBD reader and have no idea what's going on in their, just hooked it up and and drove it

Doesn't matter.....An OBD reader is wasted on those that can't actually read themselves, just sayin'

[har05l]

I don't use an OBD reader and have no idea what's going on in their, just hooked it up and and drove it

Doesn't matter.....An OBD reader is wasted on those that can't actually read themselves, just sayin'

Good point brother E

[Lunny]

Damn twins lol