High beam wire

[Buzzy]

For those of you who are going to wire up your own driving lights (macca). The high beam wire you need to tap into is the blue/yellow wire coming out of the rubber back on the headlight.

[grasshopper]

Thanks Buzzy,
Very handy info, saves me asking the dealer about the wiring.
Cheers,

[Buzzy]

Prob should put that in the articles section shouldnt I :oops:

[subi_man]

If you don't want to splice into your wire, the much talked about, but never found high-beam trigger plug has been located thanks to IronEagle... He tells me the following;
[quote][i]See the top loop of a wire to the left of the purple circle and directly above the first red circle. Bob's ya uncle there's two wireing harnesses there taped together hanging down. One seems to have power whenever the lights are on (both low and high) and the smaller of the two only on high[/quote][/i]

Hope that helps too
Cheers

[quigley595]

If you don't want to splice into your wire, the much talked about, but never found high-beam trigger plug has been located thanks to IronEagle... He tells me the following;

See the top loop of a wire to the left of the purple circle and directly above the first red circle. Bob's ya uncle there's two wireing harnesses there taped together hanging down. One seems to have power whenever the lights are on (both low and high) and the smaller of the two only on high

Hope that helps tooCheers

I realise that the article above is very old..... BUT
I am trying to find the high-beam trigger in the MN, so that I can put a set of driving lights in. I have got the Blue/Yellow wire on the headlight ok, but rather than cut & solder such a thin wire, I would have preferred to use a trigger plug.

On the MN, the 2 wireing harnesses subi-man and IronEagle refer to DOES exist, exactly as reported, but I am getting no power from either of them (tried all configurations of light switch & ignition switch).

Any thoughts? or should I just splice into the little Blue/Yellow wire?

regards all

[Cowboy Dave]

I looked at this but wimped out and went with the blue yellow wire down between the headlight and the battery. Mitsubishi does a genuine part that has a loom, relay and switches for the MN for when you get dealer fitted driving lights (the brochures had some little Hellas). I priced it but shied away at the time, can't remember now. Anyway if one of those plugs is the trigger the Mitsubishi loom might plug straight in for you. Also you'd get a nice neat looking OEM switch for your dash.

[NowForThe5th]

All the rest of us who joined newTriton.net before there was a Search (ah, life before phpbb) but hadn't been here long enough to know every post, just went blithely ahead and tapped into the wire at the back of the headlight. Two years later and the car's still running fine, all the lights work and there've been no ominous peals of thunder in protest or anger.

[quigley595]

All the rest of us who joined newTriton.net before there was a Search (ah, life before phpbb) but hadn't been here long enough to know every post, just went blithely ahead and tapped into the wire at the back of the headlight. Two years later and the car's still running fine, all the lights work and there've been no ominous peals of thunder in protest or anger.

No worries..... I dont have a real problem just tapping into the headligt.... just thought it would be neater to get the trigger....

[Snooozy]

I spent a couple of hours looking for the trigger wire on my ML,

In the end I gave up

Went for the easy way- rear of headlight.

They hide the wire very well.

Be careful when looking for wire around fuse panel under dash, if you pull the wrong fuse you can force a fault code on the SRS system. Found that out the hard way

[Greedy]

Be careful when looking for wire around fuse panel under dash, if you pull the wrong fuse you can force a fault code on the SRS system. Found that out the hard way

Good to see I'm not the only one. Steer clear of the fuse that has a symbol looking sort of like a clock.

[Riguez]

I have got the Blue/Yellow wire on the headlight ok, but rather than cut & solder such a thin wire, I would have preferred to use a trigger plug.
Quigley595 - You've probably already put your lights on given this post was 2 months ago, but why cut and solder? when you can use an 'easy splice' (I think they're called) that just clips on? they work like a charm.

[Snooozy]

I dont know them as "easy splice" but from memory the original name was scotchlock.

They do work ok, but be careful with the very thin wire, it may not get a very good connection through the insulation.

By far the best method is to splice & solder.

The other problem with the scotchlock type of connector is moisture entering the wire. Make sure you tape it up really well or if soldering heatshrink the join.

[MN GLXR]

Rather than cut and solder I just got a sharp knife and ran it along the high beam wire to remove some insulation and expose the wire. Then applied a blob of solder to it. Then tinned the trigger wire before joining it to the blob. Then applied some self amalgamating tape to wrap it all up. Works well.

[roadblock]

G'day subi_man,

I just located the wires in the picture behind the passenger's side grille panel and cut them only to find that there's no power there??? I tried them both with lights on, high beams on, etc.

Am I missing something???

Thanks,
Roadblock

[61rth]

Hi Roadblock, If you have an MN then these plugs don't have any power to them. My only thought on this is that when you use th factory loom, there most be another fuse or something you put in somewhere that allows power along this connection.

I had a quick look around but got sick of looking and just spliced in behind the light.

[glxrboy]

Hey guys whats better to wire hid spotlights to the high beam or to have them on their own switch in the truck?

[Cowboy Dave]

Own switch. Need trigger wire to relay to ensure they won't run without high beams being activated first.

[glxrboy]

Im not putting it in im getting it installed by professional

[RossyB07]

I dont know them as "easy splice" but from memory the original name was scotchlock.

They do work ok, but be careful with the very thin wire, it may not get a very good connection through the insulation.

By far the best method is to splice & solder.

The other problem with the scotchlock type of connector is moisture entering the wire. Make sure you tape it up really well or if soldering heatshrink the join.

If you are going to use scotch locks the best to use is the ones with the water resistant gel inside the connector.

Otherwise just solder a wire on as some have said. Easy as!

[NowForThe5th]

Hey guys whats better to wire hid spotlights to the high beam or to have them on their own switch in the truck?

Driving lights must be wired so that:
1. They only come on with the high beam; and,
2. They must have a separate switch so that they can be turned off.

As noted above, "scotch locks" are literally hit or miss. If you get it wrong you can miss the very thin wire inside the insulation or you can cut it or break enough strands to cause a hot spot with resultant fire risk. Solder is better although this has it's own problems, creating a stress point at the end of the solder. Best is to solder the tips and then slide a crimp up the line, followed by heat shrink (the waterproofing one is best) and then some self amalgamating tape to seal everything over the top.

[fridgie]

Hey guys whats better to wire hid spotlights to the high beam or to have them on their own switch in the truck?

Driving lights must be wired so that:
1. They only come on with the high beam; and,
2. They must have a separate switch so that they can be turned off.

THIS^^^^^^^^

[godzilla_rising]

Ok, so I'm going to throw this in here as it is somewhat suitable.

I have had my LED light bar wired up for a while now and had no problems. It all worked and is wired into the left high beam wire out the back of the headlight. As I was driving home last night (the joys of late shift) I decided to test out said light bar. Oh the brilliant light it produced...for about 5 minutes. After this time, it just switched off, and I had to get use to the crappy standard lighting. So thinking I had either blown a fuse or it had somehow overheated, I switched everything off or back to normal and drove home.

About 5 minutes from home I decided to try it again and it worked...for about 3 minutes before again turning off. This time I noticed that my left high beam no longer flicks on.

I haven't checked any fuses yet, but apart from that I'm lost as to what it might be or even how to fix/find it.

[Cowboy Dave]

Do you have a relay in the mix or are you trying to draw all the power out of that one trigger wire?

[hvac guy]

Sounds like a hot spot

Poor connection in the wiring will generate heat and will
Melt ,burn, connection points.

Did U use a relay or the hi beam wire
To power your light directly?

[godzilla_rising]

There is a relay that came with the light bar, I don't have the exact diagram or engine bay with me right now but there is definitely a relay there.

I'm thinking that there is a fuse blown now because now I can't even get high beam to come on. Well one does, but the light on the dash doesn't.

Aaahh fun times.