Salt's V6 ML

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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Wed Sep 29, 2010 8:38 pm

^^^yes it does, my bank account sending Mayday signals since I joined this site :lol:
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby tassie_ml on Wed Sep 29, 2010 8:53 pm

lucky1 wrote:I like the black out! But I shouldn't trawl through these pages, it generally costs me money :lol:


dont try to keep up with him Lucky, it hurts too much :mrgreen:

my credit card stopped sending smoke signals a long time ago and even the Falcon has given up circling over my place :lol: :lol:
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby eroled on Thu Sep 30, 2010 4:28 pm

Has anyone tryed these headers ?are they any good, im thinking of getting sum http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:12 pm

Hey Eroled,

Mate they seem a bit cheap and i would want to see pics and find out where the oxygen sensors can be located (there is 4 sensors)
The other thing is the two catalytic converters that are in the two manifold pipes would disappear making it good for performance but probably illegal.....

Still I would be interested to see them ;)
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby eroled on Thu Sep 30, 2010 6:09 pm

Whats the law with cats and mufflers.? I thought it was 1 cat and X amount of mufflers to keep it under a certin db reading. Why cant you just remove front 2 cats with straight pipe down to a Y then one cat then X mufflers.Are the cats there also to keep the sensors cooler( from what ive read they play up when over heated). Or am I missing something, if im going to do this I want to do this right the first time :lol:

What do the v6 pajeros guys do ,seeing they have had header avalibe for a longer time than us triton guys, do the have 4 sensors too. Im trying to get my head around this with best solution :D

im also looking at upgrading to cold air intake pipe and pod filter like this http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT
the AFM are exactly the same so it should be a easy install ... well for street use not that hard core off road and water crossing like I know alot of you do.
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:29 pm

Mate from what I understand ( and I may be corrected ) the db noise level is not the issue, this can be controlled by mufflers etc.
The issue is CO2 emissions, by removing the cats you are increasing the emissions beyond what the manufacturers claim and this would make the car illegal. Again from what I understand the vehicle must comply to the year of manufacture and the relevant design rules, I am assuming but I think it is the manufacturers compliance to a certain amount of emissions for any given vehicle and if you change these the vehicle would become illegal(unroadworthy) Mind you getting pinged on it would be unlucky and given it is a 4wd unlikely....

As far as the oxygen sensors go when they get too hot they throw irregular voltages to the ecu resulting in check engine lights and limp modes. Mate at the exhaust shop explained to me that to set up headers you need to test the oxy sensors and find the correct position for them as to perform as they should eg correct temperature and you would also need to remap the ecu or buy aftermarket programmable ecu to replace the oem version.
This can all be done but how much are you willing to spend.........

Also you would have to spend days on the dyno tuning and fine tuning ecu mapping and also oxy sensor position and deal with any error codes/limp modes. Mate said the technology is available and already there with the top drag and race cars and can be done for the street but is very expensive.

I spoke to Ralliart in Dandenong and they said simply "buy a supercharger" and leave everything else as is :lol:
That will set you back around 10k :D

For cold air induction I would go the snorkel, anything under the bonnet is going to draw hot air. I have the snorkel and a uni filter and the difference is quite noticable, the snorkel has a ram air effect and overtaking in 5th gear is a breeze where before I would always drop back to fourth (manual)
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Fri Oct 01, 2010 9:20 pm

Well my bullbar finally arrived today and I have been busy getting it fitted.

I am about half way atm and will post pics tomorrow when it is done :D
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby tassie_ml on Sat Oct 02, 2010 7:51 am

salt36 wrote:Well my bullbar finally arrived today and I have been busy getting it fitted.

I am about half way atm and will post pics tomorrow when it is done :D


thanks Craig, cant wait to see the pix :mrgreen:
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:41 pm

Ok my Bullbar arrived yesterday and so I started to fit last night and today.

As usuall nothing is easy( I must have killed lots of chinaman in my past life)......

I have had the bullbar on and off lots of times to rectify little details that I am pedantic about getting right :roll:

I will show you.....Here's the bar

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All good so I follow the instructions ( which I downloaded weeks ago and can almost recite from memory it has been that long since I ordered the bar.....)

Cut the front bumper and flares.....Mind you take em off and put em on a few times.... :roll:
And then mount the 'impact absorbing mounting assembly' what ? its a big bracket....
Ok thats as far as I got last night and for some reason the phone takes crap photos in dim light


See.....

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This morning I get ready to mount the winch and bar to Triton, so I read instructions, turn winch end 72 deg to allow for easy locking/unlocking of the winch brake...cool so I do that and trial fit the winch....Nah needs another few degrees of a turn to reach the release lever, bar off again
....
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So I finally get that sorted and get the bar mounted ( took me ages to get it lined up and level and correct height etc.....
Read insructions 'cut washer bottle to allow clearance for underneath plate'
I look at the picture , ok cool start cutting ..... WTF water !!!! Crap I cut too close to the washer resorvoir :roll:
Oh well good chance to wash my hands....

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So there goes a couple of hours, get the solder iron out and weld the plastic back together, A win finally, it didnt leak......
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And so on with the rest of the bar fitment, I spent most of the afternoon adapting the Mitsi fog lights to the ARB mount, while listening to the Grand Final repeat( and having a beer :D ). Also mounted the winch control and wired it all, that was a tight squeeze gettting everything lined up,....should have done that while the bar was off.....
I also painted the two grill peices and the fog light mounts Black, I took a pic but too dim light and cant see ...
Will take more pics tommorrow. :D
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby al coholic on Sun Oct 03, 2010 1:03 pm

Looking good Salt :D ...........cant wait to see the pics of the finished front bar ;) Coming along nicely
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby tassie_ml on Sun Oct 03, 2010 1:18 pm

looks good so far, pity about the washer bottle :lol: :lol: oops sorry that should have been a :roll: :roll:

lookin forward to some more pics Craig :D
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby giancarlo93 on Sun Oct 03, 2010 2:02 pm

hey how did you put the OEM mitsubishi fog lights in the ARB bullbar?
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby koshari on Sun Oct 03, 2010 2:23 pm

i have the same uhf radio as you except i put it in the slot under the RV meter.
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby Snooozy on Sun Oct 03, 2010 7:48 pm

comon craig.....wheres the finished photos :!: :!:
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Sun Oct 03, 2010 8:18 pm

Thanks guys, all done now, only a couple of pics today, been flat out all day doing car, garden, kids, etc etc you know how it is and plus I am working away as of tomorow so getting everything ready.

It took a few hours to fit the Mitsi fog lights, I did take my time though.
Basically i cut the original mounts up and modified them as best i could to fit the ARB plastic mounts.
One side cut and drilled a hole in the long mount bracket which now bolts with a spacer to the ARB unit.
The other side cut of the original mount bracket right up to the two screws beside the fog light and drill a hole to go over the indicator mount lug/post thing so the indicator actually holds that side of the fog light in.
It seems a bit dodgy but works and I have retained the original adjustment for up and down of the light so I can point them up or down as needed.
Should have taken some photos but didnt :roll:

Kosh i moved my UHF to under the ash tray as it was annoying my left leg when on a long drive.....
Is yours under the trip meter etc display? wasnt quite sure where you meant....

When wiring up the spotlights and putting in the switch I pulled out the switch mount from behind the lower dash panel and :shock: wtf ? Check this out.....
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Do you see it 'Toyota'........... :shock: I thought I bought a Mitsubishi..... :lol: I did I did :lol:
Any way here is the finished bar, I put the winch control on top of the winch motor on the left side and the plug is spot on in the round hole in the top of the bar :D Got to have a win sometimes :D I will take more pics of details another day......
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Sun Oct 03, 2010 8:19 pm

:lol: :lol: @ Snoozy
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby Snooozy on Sun Oct 03, 2010 10:03 pm

looking good.

are you getting new rubber for the trip,...

or just going to get some use out of the winch ;)

ps what winch did you go with :?: ...looks like a mako (avenger)
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby giancarlo93 on Mon Oct 04, 2010 1:32 am

Looking good! If have time to take some picturesof the OEM fog ligths mount in the ARB bull bar I will apprecciate it.
Now its time to put some 35's under that triton.
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Mon Oct 04, 2010 4:31 am

:lol: 35's would be nice but I am paying off some Goodyear Wrangler silent armours think they are 32's

If I have the bottom plates off anytime soon I will take some photos mate :D

Yep Snoozy avenger 9500lbs
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby Joe on Mon Oct 04, 2010 11:01 am

Lookin' good salt :mrgreen:
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby slimv6 on Mon Oct 04, 2010 3:37 pm

I did RPW Headers, took cats out and all that good stuff...

Witht the cats out, the second sensors pick up more CO, and put the voltage output the same as the front ones before the cats.

If you can collarthe output to 0.45v you should be able to stop the engine light. But as far as injection goes, it's still open loop, as the second sensors have little to do with CO mixtures, IIRC. They are only there to tell you when the cats are poked, or removed. :mrgreen: I also discovered this the interesting way... so for now, micro rheostat in the loop, to set resistance...

As for the front ones, I have installed them in the collectors from each bank. HOWEVER< the RPW header set are not tuned lengths, so the one bank sensor sits further from the head than the other one. When I measure voltage, they were pretty much the same. Never over a volt. But it would be much easier to do this setup if you had access to a dyno and you lcould load the motor while testing the lambda outputs. It would be more accurate than standing rev.

Just a word for the wiser, make 60000000000000000000000% percent sure that the header set is for the 6G74 or 6G75, the 6g72 block is a ball-hair shorter, so there are contact issues where the LHS pipe comes past the bottom of the bell housing.

Africa is so far behind the rest of the world, we will probably only have emission regulations in about fifty years!

Best of luck!
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby Steane on Mon Oct 04, 2010 5:02 pm

Nice job Salt!

I did exactly the same thing as you to my washer bottle when I fitted my bullbar...haha. Makes you feel really stupid as you watch the water drain out...
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby tassie_ml on Mon Oct 04, 2010 5:55 pm

coming along nicely Craig, so whats the next reason to hemorage the credit card.......

oh, btw, did you end up getting WOFTAM's mirror backs and door handles
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby salt36 on Mon Oct 04, 2010 8:17 pm

Thanks guys :D

Mark, no I didnt know about them ?

I didnt get a pm.... But I'm keen to swap :D
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Re: Salt's V6 ML

Postby tassie_ml on Tue Oct 05, 2010 7:05 am

reading WOFTAM's thread here viewtopic.php?f=51&t=6350 and I thought you had it sorted

not to worry :|
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