Recovery points

[chick_magnet_0001]

I’m going to go out on a limb hear and say you don't really need shackles for the triton, i mean you can't use one on the front when being recovered same as the back (you use the hitch pin/ unless you have a billet recovery hitch…. joining straps you should use a newspaper or whatever to stop the two straps binding sooo unless your using a pulley block and need to secure it to a tree with a tree trunk protector and connect up to the block via the holes that align when its spun together i don't see the need........

for the cost just get some 4.75t rated ones it not even worth bothering about to be honest

[killa]

Grade S shackles that are rated to Australian Standard (AS2741) have an ultimate breaking force that is 6x the WLL.
Therefore your 3.25T Shackles will ultimately break at 19.5T when used in the correct orientation. They will be fine for most light vehicle recoveries.

[al coholic]

isn't the front loop just a tie down point not a recovery point so wouldn't using a bridle be unsafe, and wasn't the reason mark(the P7 trainer) said new cars should use a bridle strap is because they have a monocoque chassis and not a ladder frame chassis like our tritons.....

totally correct Chicky.....the front "loop" is just a tie down. regarding the use of a bridal strap attached to the front loop and the hook on the passenger side........it would really depend on the situation.

Its fine to sit there with a driver trainer and say this is what you should do.....you shouldnt do this etc. But every recovery is different and there is always different factors involved I would say 80% of recoveries a Triton would get into would be more than fine with a snatch attached to the front hook.....

If it is a bit harder than normal........attaching a bridal strap to the front loop is definitely going to "ease" the strain on just the hook alone.....although not a rated point...in reality, you are only putting half the normal amount of strain on both points by equalising the load.

If you are bogged up to the chassis rails in sand or especially mud........the use of common sense says you are unlikely to snatch out without a lot of effort or strain on either vehicle...........you should probably be winching out.

Thats the thing......it all comes down to common sense and being able to asses each and every situation. I would say alot of snatching "accidents" are due to in experience or the "time saving factor" of not having to wind out a winch I would only be using a snatch strap in the "easier" recoveries

[wilbo2]

agreed, I have contacted chopper/P7 and enrolled in a class up in Teewah for next year, but on the interim this is my plan.

Try not to get bogged If I do, then instead of smashing the pedal, reverse back over the tracks in 4wd. If no luck try and dig push etc maybe chuck some cardboard under the wheels for traction (or is this a waste of time?) Then if no luck dig some more to make the snatch as easy as possible and use the tow hook (passenger side). Will run tyres at about 18 psi (they are stock bridgestone HTs I got with my GL-R). I know this is a forum for recovery points but cheers for the pointers on recovery techniques too.

[wilbo2]

oh yeh I forgot to ask, When driving on beach are you basically in 2wd unless on the soft sand up higher on the shore and obviously egress/degress??? only in 4wd when you need to be or all the time?

[coxy47]

agreed, I have contacted chopper/P7 and enrolled in a class up in Teewah for next year, but on the interim this is my plan.

Try not to get bogged If I do, then instead of smashing the pedal, reverse back over the tracks in 4wd. If no luck try and dig push etc maybe chuck some cardboard under the wheels for traction (or is this a waste of time?) Then if no luck dig some more to make the snatch as easy as possible and use the tow hook (passenger side). Will run tyres at about 18 psi (they are stock bridgestone HTs I got with my GL-R). I know this is a forum for recovery points but cheers for the pointers on recovery techniques too.

Id probably start with the tyres at around 24psi and drop to 18 if needed. Thats just my preference though. Reversing out is a good option, another method is to try and rock the vehicle back and forth slightly as this can help to get more sand underneath the wheels. Dont no about using cardboard as ive never tried it, a couple planks of wood do a good job. Ultimately though momentum is king in soft sand.

oh yeh I forgot to ask, When driving on beach are you basically in 2wd unless on the soft sand up higher on the shore and obviously egress/degress??? only in 4wd when you need to be or all the time?

Once again this is a personal preference. I like to drive in 2wd on the hard sand when cruising up the beach as its pretty much as hard as a road. Then either 4hi 1st or second or 4lo second for really soft sand and entering or leaving the beach.

[chopper]

Just to clarify, and I hope that noone took the wrong impression... I do not suggest using a bridle between the recovery hook and a tie down.

Certainly use a bridle between two recovery points, but don't use the tie down for anything other than a secondary, non dynamic, backup.

We may not have demoed this on Straddie as we 'recovered' a prado (with two recovery points, using a bridle).

If I get 5 minutes spare i'll elaborate.


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Www.p7offroad.com.au

[chick_magnet_0001]

agreed, I have contacted chopper/P7 and enrolled in a class up in Teewah for next year, but on the interim this is my plan.

Try not to get bogged If I do, then instead of smashing the pedal, reverse back over the tracks in 4wd. If no luck try and dig push etc maybe chuck some cardboard under the wheels for traction (or is this a waste of time?) Then if no luck dig some more to make the snatch as easy as possible and use the tow hook (passenger side). Will run tyres at about 18 psi (they are stock bridgestone HTs I got with my GL-R). I know this is a forum for recovery points but cheers for the pointers on recovery techniques too.

Id probably start with the tyres at around 24psi and drop to 18 if needed. Thats just my preference though. Reversing out is a good option, another method is to try and rock the vehicle back and forth slightly as this can help to get more sand underneath the wheels. Dont no about using cardboard as ive never tried it, a couple planks of wood do a good job. Ultimately though momentum is king in soft sand.from

oh yeh I forgot to ask, When driving on beach are you basically in 2wd unless on the soft sand up higher on the shore and obviously egress/degress??? only in 4wd when you need to be or all the time?

Once again this is a personal preference. I like to drive in 2wd on the hard sand when cruising up the beach as its pretty much as hard as a road. Then either 4hi 1st or second or 4lo second for really soft sand and entering or leaving the beach.

from personal experience 24psi with the stock size doesn't do a whole lot in sand, its not until 18psi and below things start to get happening and you really notice how little throttle and momentum you need to get through soft sand. at 10-12psi on stock size tyres your triton turns into an animal on the sand...in saying this you can go as low as 8psi but remember at these pressures, speeds must be kept low and turning especially has to be considered to not be done quickly or erratically.... this experience is based on both a single and dual cab triton.

[coxy47]

from personal experience 24psi with the stock size doesn't do a whole lot in sand, its not until 18psi and below things start to get happening and you really notice how little throttle and momentum you need to get through soft sand. at 10-12psi on stock size tyres your triton turns into an animal on the sand...in saying this you can go as low as 8psi but remember at these pressures, speeds must be kept low and turning especially has to be considered to not be done quickly or erratically.... this experience is based on both a single and dual cab triton.

I guess i should of clarified that as i bought the car second hand i never had the stock tyres. I did have pirelli HTs though and it floated on sand at 24psi.

[wilbo2]

I'm back from straddie, didn't get bogged once, well nothing I couldn't reverse out of anyway. No chance to practice recoveries but I did heaps of digging to help others out. This was in soft sand where everyone was getting bogged (Colorados, Landcruisers, Navaras with all the goodies). Just hit it with momentum in low range and kept the revs up and no dramas at all. This was at about 25psi. Probably not the thread to elaborate but the we did a couple tracks and the Triton did EVERYTHING first go when others couldn't. Was very very impressed. Pity about the paintwork though I killed my metallic paint when we went inland

[borngeek]

So I have bought two of these recovery hooks for my XROX bar from "juststraps"

Saves using the factory stuff at the front. Like how it comes with its own rated bolts

IMG_1370 (Small).JPG

https://www.juststraps.com.au/store/cart_detail.asp?group1=Accessories_4x4

[tukadafoonday]

I got them as well... The stick out like bull horns!

[kwyjibo]

Its catching on geek , everyone with an xrox should have 2 of these recovery hooks fitted, its one of the MANY bonuses of having a comp style front bar imo!! lots of room for additions


Remember when i got bogged in the sand at stockton last year? you stopped and pulled me out and back to driving within about 30 seconds i reckon... seriously!! and much safer/stronger than factory stuff

[helicoptercow]

Those without xrox bars, has anyone investigated Ben's idea any further? Still think it could be a good idea, especially in light of Tex's experience where his factory hook bent.

You guys see any reason why i cant mount a "rated tow hook" to either side of the bullbar where it bolts to the chassis and run a bridal strap between the two for snatch recoveries??? The two bolts circled in red actually go through the chassis i think from memory......the lower ones are through a bracket which clamps "around" the chassis.

As i dont have those stupid wing pieces like the ARB bars......there is nothing in the way of attaching the snatch strap......unless the recovery vehicle was up hill about 45deg.......then the strap would rub on the underedge of the bar....


(Click for full size)


Something like this i think

[borngeek]

Will measure when I get home this arvo Tex

//You never forget the first time you get to recover Kwyji. Half of australia has had a crack at that?

[Homer]

I just got a couple from Opposite Lock. 35mm hole centres.

They were $25 for two which I thought was a bargain!

I met another Triton owner there who told me you can get them for nicks at any local tow bar joint as they pull a lot off different 4x4's when fitting bars....might be worth a look for those chasing a bargain...

[al coholic]

Those without xrox bars, has anyone investigated Ben's idea any further? Still think it could be a good idea, especially in light of Tex's experience where his factory hook bent.

You guys see any reason why i cant mount a "rated tow hook" to either side of the bullbar where it bolts to the chassis and run a bridal strap between the two for snatch recoveries??? The two bolts circled in red actually go through the chassis i think from memory......the lower ones are through a bracket which clamps "around" the chassis.

As i dont have those stupid wing pieces like the ARB bars......there is nothing in the way of attaching the snatch strap......unless the recovery vehicle was up hill about 45deg.......then the strap would rub on the underedge of the bar....


(Click for full size)


Something like this i think

I have to admit I have been a bit lazy with this HC. hopefully get to it soon

[helicoptercow]

fail

was maxtriton on at the end of page 2. But don't sell yourself short tex, your time will come

Pretty confident those hole centres are greater then 35mm so be needing to fabricate something not only to mount the hook, but possibly bring it forward and reduce possible scuffing from the bull bar.

[g_mac]

Not sure if anyone's posted/read this - some interesting info:

http://www.arb.com.au/getting-started/a ... points.php

[borngeek]

Geek, can you measure the distance from centre to centre of the holes......please

Just to double the check, Tex, mine are 35mm centre's as well per homer's post, already.

I just got a couple from Opposite Lock. 35mm hole centres.

They were $25 for two which I thought was a bargain!

I met another Triton owner there who told me you can get them for nicks at any local tow bar joint as they pull a lot off different 4x4's when fitting bars....might be worth a look for those chasing a bargain...

[RockoWallaby]

Not sure if anyone's posted/read this - some interesting info:

http://www.arb.com.au/getting-started/a ... points.php

When was that written? No date on the article.
Anyone happen to have followed up with ARB on when they're available?
I sent them a message asking for some info on them, and when they might be available. Will advise as I hear.

Me, I'd happily pay $200-$300 for quality, properly designed recovery points!
One of those items that not worth skimping on, in my opinion.

[helicoptercow]

likely to be 12-24months old, being a 2010 challenger owner. I spose you would contact arb and find out if they have one for a ranger or cruiser since they were meant to be the first to hit the market.

It is a good article though, does address the reasoning behind why you dont see to many of these products, and answers the question why they stopped producing the recovery eye on their range of bullbars.

at th end of the day though, i would rather overengineer a solid recovery point (solid bent piece with an eye for shackle) on the front then continue to use the factory points. or even cut the exisit one off and have a new one welded on.

[RockoWallaby]

Ask and ye shall receive

"Hello Scott,

Thank you for your enquiry to ARB and your interest in our products.

ARB engineering is currently under immense time pressures with many new vehicle recently released and a raft being released in the new year.

It is always difficult to commit to production availability dates prior to the completion of a development project and even more difficult with the current work load.

My best estimation at this time, is that a recovery point project for the Triton will be completed in the first quarter of next year.

Kind regards.
Andrew Bellamy
Cargo Systems Product Manager
ARB Corporation Limited"

Course, didn't receive that much, but at least something appears to be happening there

[Cowboy Dave]

I can't say I trust them on that mate. They added the Sahara bar for the MN to their dealer catalog in about June 2011. I had some enquiries made earlier today and was told they wouldn't actually be manufacturing any until about March/April 2012. I've no doubt he's correct that they're under a lot of pressure and all that, but to me that just means estimates of time like this are going to be even harder to meet.

[Homer]

As with some other suppliers who expressed the opinion that Tritons aren't worth manufacturing for due to numbers etc, ARB will be the same.

They all use the same data to gauge potential volume.