GLRkenny wrote:........ is the seal just an I ring type or will I need gaskets?
srb wrote:Just wanted to thank SEJ for posting this mod. I have always thought that mine ran a little hotter than most MN's (Ultragauge measured) Well I did this the other day and can confirm that it works a treat! I have notice about a 8- 10 degree drop in max temps.
Calblitzen wrote:Has anyone tried the waterless coolant. (http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/) NBo water, therefore no steam and low pressure. Appears radiator cap can be removed whilst the car is hot.
Longranger1 wrote:Calblitzen wrote:Has anyone tried the waterless coolant. (http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/) NBo water, therefore no steam and low pressure. Appears radiator cap can be removed whilst the car is hot.
Looks like interesting stuff. Thanks for posting.
Mattstruck wrote:Mine is running same temps as your was Sej.
Tell me, do you lose much coolant pulling it apart?
Do you need to buy any coolant or just top up with water?
Any photos?
SEJ GLX-R wrote:My MN has been running high engine temps, at between 95 - 105 degrees but not overheating (boiling). As we know, there are a few threads on over heating MN Tritons here, here and running temps here but I didn't want to loose this in one of those threads so I started this one.
I have been watching my engine temps on the ScangaugeII like a hawk for a long while now which goes back to when the car had about 10,000kms on it. The original coolant went a brown colour very early on. I did a full flush, cleared all the coolant out (not just drain the radiator) and put in some nice new (non genuine) coolant in. After that I noticed the engine temps were higher than before, between (95 - 105). Thinking I had an air lock in it I tried everything to get the air out with no success. I put up with it for a little bit and thought maybe it is due to the non genuine coolant so did a full flush on it yet again using genuine coolant with no improvement.
Thinking about it more and more I came to the conclusion the thermostat was faulty as the engine temp was always between 95 -105 no matter what the outside temp was. I had driven it in over 40 degree temps and down to single figures with the frost warning on, still high engine temps.
I bought a new thermostat to fit and noticed that it didn't have an air bleed hole in it. This got me thinking again about an air lock behind the thermostat.
Today, I finally pulled out the thermostat and sat the old and new ones in a pot of water and brought it up to temp......... surprise surprise, they both operate at the correct temp (82 degrees) Which means it was an air lock all along.
Now to the modification part.
- Remove the thermostat from the engine, (under the power steering pump with 3x 12mm head bolts)
- Check the operation it a pot of water to ensure the thermostat is fine,
- Drill a 1/8" hole as close to the seal as possible,
- Refit the thermostat with the hole right at the top,
- Refill your coolant,
- Test drive your Triton,
- Check, check and recheck for leaks,
During my 50km test drive up some long hills, I am happy to report that my engine temps now range from 86 - 94 not 95 -105 The funny thing is the temp gauge has always sat in the exact same place, right in the middle.
Please note:- I did this for high engine temps, NOT overheating, and it worked for me. If your Triton overheats (boils) take it to the dealer, this will not help that.
Cowboy Dave wrote:Are you doing it twice?
The bloke who posted up about this mod is away for the weekend on the robe trip so he won't answer til next week, if he answers at all.
I haven't done the job but I bought the thermostat. I was also able to source a gasket from an auto shop somewhere which purported to be a gasket for the thermostat.
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