coxy47 wrote:This is the path that i was trying to go down with rectifiying the problem but i dont believe there is a good solution. The best method is to cut the power line for the Throttle Position Sensor as this will disable the thottle and once re-enabled will allow the engine to shutdown smoothly. It does generate an engine code, cant remeber what though .Some times this only appears as a pending code but it does become a CEL if you dont clear it. The best thing about this code though is that once it has been generated in that particular time the engine is one, it wont re-enable the throttle for egr purposes even if the sensor is re-enabled. So this means you can cycle the switch relatively quickly, read a minute between off and on, and the throttle will be fully open all the time and still shutdown correctly . But the down side is the CEL's it generates.
Other wires can be cut to disable the throttle but if you disable the actuator it generates a different code which prevents the car from shutting down properly until its cleared. It took me a while to figure out that was the case .
While you could automate this process of disabling and re-enabling the switch its not possible without the engine code.
sierra wrote:Very interesting!
I noticed the TPS signal stayed at 99% open when I shut down and had assumed the thing shut or went to 0% to achieve the clean shut down. I hadn't mentioned it in case someone said it was the scabby Scanguage not doing it's job properly.
So it must be the fuel is shut off at the injectors instead of at the pump? Something like that and the throttle body must be involved in some way? I thought of starting it, pulling the hose off the throttle body and getting someone to turn it off while I watch in case the butterfly does a quick flip to closed and back which is too quick to register or on a different circuit?
Someone here, RHK Triton?, pulled the plug on the throttle body for weeks without bothering to clear the CEL and had no problems with it getting worse than that.
coxy47 wrote:The Throttle flap definitly does go to 0% or there abouts when the engine shuts down so it is the scabby Scangauge not doing its job properly. Though mine used to read that so im not sure what yours is doing. Do you have the update frequency set to Fast??
i wasnt clear but the code that is generated from disabling the sensor, after you have re-enabled it and as long as you havent cleared it, prevents it from shutting under egr operation but not on shutdown. The throttle does close on shutdown. As for the code it doesnt cause any problems as long as you dont mind having a CEL. I use the switch every day going to and from work and only clear it about once a week.
Ive decided to give 2t oil another run so ill see how it goes this time. I have missed the smoothness and quietness of the enigne with it
odie602r wrote:Yeah only difference between 11L/100 and this one was the one way valve in MAP line. Will leave it in for return leg tomorrow and check it out again. Watch this space.
Thanks too for those photos srb above, re long rangers other mod. How did you make up that tee pipe between the EGR cooler and valve? Would you consider making more?
RHKTriton wrote:I just kill the power to the flap, esp when driving in the city - absolute pig at lights in standard mode.
One thing I have been watching over the last few weeks: if I let the engine reach reach normal temp, I won't get a light with the flap disabled. If I try earlier it sometimes gives a light but not always.
What I am getting lately is a limpy with no light if I leave the flap engaged and use the aircon - error in in throttle position sensor - so its got an intermittant break in part of its sweep.
odie602r wrote:Okay, just refueled after the return leg with EGR blank and One way valve in MAP line - 480.7kms, 46.61L = 9.69L/100kms. So, consistency now over a return trip of over 1L/100kms improvement for me with the One Way valve in.
These figures are now closer to the best I've got back so far, so I think it makes sense to keep the EGR blank in now, since the fuel economy hit has been negated.
For a few $$, it certainly appears as though this simple mod (the one way valve) is worth doing for those of us who have taken a hit (increase) with fuel economy - I wonder whether those who didn't have their consumption increase would see even further benefit by installing the one way valve?
But if you do - I don't want to know!
odie602r wrote:Not thinking about removing the setup now after the one way valve is in, but was considering removing it prior to this when the EGR blank alone caused an increase in fuel consumption (16% more fuel being used - not happy Jan!)
So, the setup overall has not improved my economy, rather:
> the EGR blank alone made it worse (by 16%), and
> the one way valve corrected it back to baseline (ie non-EGR blank consumption figures).
So, economy-wise, I'm not better off (unlike what many others have experienced), but at least I won't be getting any carbon buildup - that's a win, for sure.
Driveability - it does seem to have reduced the turbo lag - it's not as noticeable now, even my wife commented.
RHKTriton wrote:The ideal solution to my way of thinking would be an in line module that takes the actuator signal and feeds back what ever value the ECU wants to be happy and essentially leave the flap open until the value is detected for engine shut off.
Its pretty amazing just how much the flap moves about during driving.
Another idea I had a while back was to use the EGR signal to kill the Flap when its trying to do its DIRTY stuff.
coxy47 wrote:RHKTriton wrote:The ideal solution to my way of thinking would be an in line module that takes the actuator signal and feeds back what ever value the ECU wants to be happy and essentially leave the flap open until the value is detected for engine shut off.
Its pretty amazing just how much the flap moves about during driving.
Another idea I had a while back was to use the EGR signal to kill the Flap when its trying to do its DIRTY stuff.
I agree that would be an ideal way to go but it would take some clever wiring to get it right. Ive also had the idea of using the egr valves signal to counteract the throttle but decided it was to much hassle with how sensitive these ecus are to voltage variances.
Personally i think that short of an extensive engine tuning overhaul i doubt think we will struggle to find an effective electrical solution.
RHKTriton wrote:The ideal solution to my way of thinking would be an in line module that takes the actuator signal and feeds back what ever value the ECU wants to be happy and essentially leave the flap open until the value is detected for engine shut off.
Its pretty amazing just how much the flap moves about during driving.
Another idea I had a while back was to use the EGR signal to kill the Flap when its trying to do its DIRTY stuff.
RHKTriton wrote:8/100? ya drive like a granny Sierra?
You could also cut the actuator to flap shaft connection. Leave the flap open and the rest carries on like alls well.
You'd have to live with the run on when shutting down but a bit of air to purge any fuel vapour can't be bad?
Other option would be to pick up a spare actuator/sensor unit and simply plug this into the cable and leave the throttle assembly alone.
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