jarad510 wrote:Driveline services I'm pretty sure that wasn't the problem because I've had it looked at by another mechanic just to be sure when I first got it. Yesterday Lee shown me a hand full of peices that resembled a pin or multiple pins? The problem is its constantly locked and when turning and moving around offroad there is constant load on the diff. I'd say unless you have a patrol with a super tuff diff keep away from them, I wouldn't recommend them for any of today ifs utes it's just to much load on the diff
NowForThe5th wrote:Either way, failure of the diff through these pins coming out comes back to installation error.
As far as the Lokka failing because it is always under load, that is quite wrong. A locking differential, must, by definition, always be under load. The advantage of the Lokka is that it allows the outside wheel to turn more than the inside wheel so releases the pressure that could otherwise result in wind-up when using a locking diff like the ARB type. That is, the ARB is actually more likely to fail for this reason than the Lokka. Both, however, are way overengineered and so failure will happen in the driveshafts or CVs, these being the weakest link.
Mooons wrote:If the Lokka failure was bad enough to punch a hole in the diff housing depending on what part failed would it not be possible for these pind and springs to fall out after the failure
NowForThe5th wrote:this might be analysing the problem before having all the information
Froggy wrote:Maybe you should try talking to 4wd systems nft5.
It's everyone else's fault and nothing short of a lawsuit will get money outta them!
jarad510 wrote:Stay away from auto lockers. I had a lokka in the front smash and blow a hole right through my diff casing on the weekend. $440 for a second hand diff plus $1220 for an arb air locker like the rear plus now for fitting price. Shouldn't of tried to cut corners in the early days...
jarad510 wrote:Yesterday Lee shown me a hand full of peices that resembled a pin or multiple pins? The problem is its constantly locked and when turning and moving around offroad there is constant load on the diff. I'd say unless you have a patrol with a super tuff diff keep away from them, I wouldn't recommend them for any of today ifs utes it's just to much load on the diff
coxy47 wrote:Jarad ill have a chat to Lee about it as well but if your all good with it id love to get a hold of the pieces of the pin and see what i can find out about depending on the sizes of the fragments and what pin/s failed.
Do you know if it was the main shaft pin that failed? should be about 20-30mm diameter. If its this though i dont see how id like to get it MPI'd or eddy current tested to see if there are any micro fractures in the material.
Mattstruck wrote:That last shot looks like the rear diff?
salt36 wrote:That is a generous offer Coxy, I would love to see the results...
Lee I would love to see a pic of the hole where the retaining pin resides, or should reside, it may tell a story.
If the retaining pin hole is till burred over then it is a fail of either it or the main pin.
If the retaining pin hole is not burred over........................
salt36 wrote:That centre pin is held in place by a smaller retaining pin which is positioned in the cage.
The retaining pin is held in place by burring the end of it's hole so it can't come out.
It can only go in one way, the other end of it's hole is blocked by the casting of the cage.
This looks to me like the retaining pin has come out allowing the centre pin to slide and get chopped off by the cage and/or the inside of the diff housing.
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