mitsubishi genuine coolant boiling point

[Edd]

Anybody know the the boiling point of mitsubishi genuine coolant ? is it 109c or more

[Cowboy Dave]

More

[Cowboy Dave]

It depends on the mix of coolant to water. From memory the genuine stuff is pre-mixed but as I don't have a contained here (it's at work ) I can't check the ratio etc.

Here's a table from wikipedia of the different boiling points with different percentages

Weight Percent EG (%) Boiling Point (°F) Boiling Point (°C)
0 212 100
10 215 102
20 215 102
30 220 104
40 220 104
50 225 107
60 230 110
70 240 116
80 255 124
90 285 140
100 387 197

So any more than 60% ethylene glycol and you're good for 110 degrees celsius or more.

[fridgie]

Here's one I prepared earlier

uploadfromtaptalk1374747675473.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1374747688242.jpg

Pre-mixed at 50% ratio

[fridgie]

Doesn't say boiling point but I know from experience it has an auto ignition temperature of 450c

[Cowboy Dave]

Geez so your 109 degrees figure sounds pretty marginal if the wikipedia figures are accurate.

[Edd]

Hmmm 107c at 50%

[hvac guy]

This would be at atmospheric pressure the boiling point is higher when under pressure.

[fridgie]

For every 1psi boiling point increases 3deg f.

So a 15psi radiator cap increases the boiling point 45deg f, or 7.2deg c

[mudslinger]

I need to change my coolant for a 2014MN. I haven't experienced any of the ill fated over heating issues yet.

Wondering whether to go down the dealer route or buy coolant myself and get my mobile mechanic to do it.
As above the mitsubishi coolant at 1025g/L (pre mixed) sounds good but i think that might be the rate prior to it being mixed? Is it still the same rate?

Can anyone confirm as both nulon & penrite appear to have similiar glycol levels in a concentrated format. And all including mitsubishi are similiarly priced. Is the mitsubishi coolant being misrepresented or am I missing something.

Is it correct to assume that the nulon coolant (@50% concentration) has a boil temp of 128C vs the penrite (@50% con) of 109C, therefore Nulon would be a better option, or is there something I'm missing?

[BillMcQuade]

That Mitsubishi coolant is premix, so you don't dilute it.

There are different types of coolant, some based on Ethylene Glycol, some based on Propylene Glycol, and some that are a mix. They also have a range of organic and non organic corrosion inhibitors.

You must thoroughly flush the system (including heater) if changing coolant types. Given the (albeit slim) potential for the overheating issue, I would get the dealer to do it, or at least get your mechanic to use the Mitsubishi coolant (keep the receipt, and make sure he notes it on his docket). If the engine goes pear-shaped, at least it will give you one less thing that Mitsubishi can attempt to use to deny warranty.

[Longranger1]

I have used both genuine and Nulon coolant and even though they are similar concentrations, the ability to dissipate heat are different.

The Mitsubishi coolant may have "wetters" that Nulon doesn't have as the genuine stuff is markedly better. Both provide adequate corrosion protection but there are very obvious differences in cooling performance.

[mudslinger]

Thanks guys.. sounds like I'm best to go the mitsu path as it also provides less hassle if if it all goes pear shape. .

Also when i rang the dealer they recon they put 5L in but my understanding is that it takes 8.4L. Sounds dodgy or am i missing something? Any good stealers around brisbane nth side?

[RHKTriton]

So how much difference was there LR1?

How did you quantify it?

I'm using the Nulon and having towed a heavy load for a long trip with an electric fan, temperatures seemed to hang in the expected range.

Obviously pure water would offer the best heat transfer.

Re the dodgy engines - consumer law should protect you there.

[Longranger1]

Temp's are about a degree or two higher on average and if you are loading up by a steepish hill climb etc, you see the temp rise more rapidly than the standard coolant.

Not really a problem unless you had long, sustained heavy loads. I'm going back to standard coolant with the onset of warmer weather. I'll also flush it with distilled water prior to the change.

[Lin1952]

How much did the dealer charge for supply 5 litres of Mitsi coolant ?

[mudslinger]

They've quoted $47 thats 5L premix... the parts guy also stated when all the guys 'here' do coolant changes they only ever ask him for 5L .. not sure if its unbelievable or expected coming from a dealer?

[BillMcQuade]

They've quoted $47 thats 5L premix... the parts guy also stated when all the guys 'here' do coolant changes they only ever ask him for 5L .. not sure if its unbelievable or expected coming from a dealer?

Clearly they are only draining the radiator, and not the rest of the system. This leaves a mix of old and new coolant in the system. 5L of premix will achieve <35% concentration. Inadequate

IMHO, premix is a waste of time. The system should be reverse flushed with clean water, filled with the appropriate level of concentrate (4.2L of 100% Glycol/inhibitor in an 8.4L system), then topped off with water.

[mudslinger]

What exactly does reverse flushing involve?

Thanks for the input guys.

[BillMcQuade]

You pressure flush the system backwards. It pushes the thermostat open and gets a lot of the junk out of the block. It also prevents scale from the block getting into the waterpump. On the Triton, this means flushing from the top hose.

I used to have an old soda/acid fire extinguisher, which I modified with a fitting for an air hose (you can also use a beer keg). It fills up with water, which you then pressurise to 120psi on top. The outlet is via a pickup which goes to the bottom of the vessel, so the pressure forces the water through. 120psi sounds like a lot, but the radiator hoses aren't connected, and you are not actually pressurising the cooling system. Basically it forces the water through at a decent speed, but low pressure. You would be surprised the amount of crap that comes out of a cooling system that looks clean. You can buy an off-the-shelf unit which does the same thing.

Unfortunately, I lent the tank out years ago, and it never came back

Now I use a fitting in the top hose that has a water and air inlet. Fill the block up, and open the air valve. Takes a few goes, but works just as well.

[Jonty]

I just got quoted $73 to buy the 5L of genuine Mitsubishi premix (Green) coolant from dealer spare parts That can't be right??

[mudslinger]

I got mine changed by nundah mitsubishi at the 45k service, he recons its impossible to change whole lot, well the way mitsubishi advise them to do it...and they still managed to leave air in the system. Wentover the main range towing camper and family and it spued into overflow and wouldn't suck it back, even after 4 days of no driving!

They then did all coolant campaign checks etc, pressure tested the radiator which the monkey tells me is the only way to ensure it gets rid of all the air in system. If you ask me if thats right shouldn't it be best practice to do that on all coolant changes if theres no real guarantee that all the airs out of the system...is their such a thing as a competent dealer?

[srb]

Haha [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] nope.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[Longranger1]

Pressure testing the cooling system will not bleed air out of it. Any monkey who tells you that should be relegated to floor sweeping duties only. My experience with bleeding air out of cooling system on the MN, is that it is a slow process that needs a bit of care and diligence to carry out properly. Technicians in a lot of dealerships should stick with installing floor mats or other simple accessories. Some really are that bad...

[Booger]

By the sounds of it, I'm not the only one who has lost all faith & patience in dealerships servicing...
Can anyone do this air-lock removal of the coolant system? I've tried the tilt up the front with the heater on full and hopefully "Burp" it etc, with no luck. Or should I pay a mechanic?
New long motor installed under warranty, it's running a bit hot, as I've exlpained in the "cooling system service campaign" thread.
TIA.