DaveXT wrote:Not sure anyone knows what you are talking about.
ozguy7 wrote:HI All,
I recently installed a Tillix valve but have yet to fit the supplied Needle Valve. I wanted to see if it will provide any benefits over the Tillix valve by itself. I've got the Tillix valve set so that I reach around 19.5 PSI Max Boost. Car runs great and EGT's actually decrease under power with the additional air coming in.
On the highway, boost sits around 5-7 PSI at about 420C EGT. I understand the needle valve will let me set a higher boost when cruising at highway speeds to reduce cruising EGT's?
Is it worthwhile installing the needle valve?
Cheers
srb wrote:Needle valve is only used when going full manual boost controll. Meaning you have removed factory boost solenoid? If so then the needle valve tees off in-between Tillix and vac pump.
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
srb wrote:Yes, the needle valve can tee off anywhere on the vacuum side of the Tillis.
I can see you have completely bypassed the factory boost controller... By having no needle valve in this system you have no ability for adjustment of ramp-up rate, your turbo vanes are locked in full attack mode all of the time, probably not so great for your turbo longevity.
The needle valve will allow you to adjust a little bleed in over the vacuum to the actuator. When setting up the needle valve for the first time, a good starting point is to close the needle valve off and then slowly open the needle until you see the actuator arm rise up slightly.
You can extend the vacuum line to have the needle valve in cab for adjustments on the fly. This is great for when you want "full ramp-up" to drag someone at the lights or just back it off for cruising down the highway. When you get attuned to this you will hear the difference in the exhaust note and be able to fine tune the bleed in depending on driving conditions. I still adjust mine quite a bit while driving down the highway, depending on the engine load, egt's, afr's and sound of the exhaust.
Mine is set-up a little differently, I have modified the factory boost solenoid and by using signal from the ecu I can have automatic control that blocks my bleed-in so I have full ramp at full throttle opening. Means I can just set and forget the bleen-in adjustment for optimal everyday use and still have full-ramp if I mash the throttle pedal.
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Yes but this version never actually made it to the Platinum section, it was one of those brilliant ideas that Tony came up with when developing the original "enterprise".NowForThe5th wrote:More pictures and detailed explanations in Platinum section.
dsp26 wrote:Yes I've got the Tillix also. The valve is already teed between actuator and pump, so I assume you mean the needle can just go straight after the valve?srb wrote:Needle valve is only used when going full manual boost controll. Meaning you have removed factory boost solenoid? If so then the needle valve tees off in-between Tillix and vac pump.
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
dsp26 wrote:OK, so after much testing, The suggestion from the question in my own post is utterly incorrect, as all it does is restricts the boost cap set by the Dawes/Tillix itself by locating the needle there.
dsp26 wrote:Getting the needle valve spot on is paramount and requires lots of testing
srb wrote:dsp26 wrote:OK, so after much testing, The suggestion from the question in my own post is utterly incorrect, as all it does is restricts the boost cap set by the Dawes/Tillix itself by locating the needle there.
You have interpreted my explanation wrongly. What I explained WAS the correct way to plumb the needle valve. (Tee off between Tillix and vacuum pump.) Is what I said and it's exactly how you have ended up showing from your pic. You must have thought I ment putting the valve across the vacuum line to the boost line? Which would have been seriously dangerous, as it then would bypass the Tillix and Turbo run away would be possible.
This is why it's super important to completely understand how this system works before mucking with it. Don't just do something that someone says on a forum, unless you completely understand what it actually does and how it works.
I have drawn a line diagram of what you have actually done. As you can see, you can tee off anywhere on the vacuum side, it does not matter.
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
dsp26 wrote:Am going to leave it in engine bay for now, I currently see no point in making it adjustable in the cabin as I get heaps of idle lag with it tightened or not installed and the smoother ramp feels better
srb wrote:Something not right if getting more lag with the valve closed. Maybe check for a vacuum leak on your hose connections and check the needle valve isn't leaking? Also make sure you have the factory damper still installed close to the vacuum pump, can't see it in your pics?
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
dsp26 wrote:Didn't realise i needed to relocate the dampener to vac side when bypassing the solenoid completely (wasn't covered in Tillix instructions). I left it exactly where it is from factory on the actuator line of the solenoid.
The lowend lag was before I had the needle, and just the tillix set to 25psi... am a bit dubious on the original instructions that came with it actually, as I see a vastly different setup as per the pics you posted above and some other threads I dug up here.
But you could be on the money with the hoses, slightly lose at the pump because the hose that came with it is 1mm bigger I/D, have zip tied it tight for now
ozguy7 wrote:I've been running for awhile now with the Tillix valve (Dawes valve). I did install the needle valve but have removed it as seems to be unecessary in my case. There is no need to slow down the turbo spool.
I do have a question around what sort of boost and EGT would be safe / optimal. Currently setup with max boost at around 18.7 PSI and the EGT (in the dump pipe) never goes above 500, even when towing. Is there room for expansion here to pump a little but more air through? Would 20 PSI be a safe bet?
How high can I run the EGT before I see issues? Currently when I tow up a high, I can give a touch more throttle and see the EGT's come down a little.
Tks
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest